Brutal Brewing: A Ship Full of IPA

You could easily mistake this for a full-strength beer, such is the waft of barley malt that whacks you on uncapping, followed by the rich beery pour. Yet it is completely alcohol free. From the get-go it is an attractive product. A squat, soft-shouldered brown bottle. The pour is creamy rather than fizzy,  a head that clings to the glass. But it is the brutal (in the nicest way) punch of flavour that most impresses, an uncompromising thump of barley hits the tongue and palate like a press gang wielding cudgels, leaving no room for doubt that it will live up to the label’s claim: “It’s pure beer. Only malt, hops and yeast.” The hops are certainly there, in the astringency on the cheek and bitterness at the back of the palate. But is the heady, malty, yeasty top notes that dominate all the way, even adding extra layers of punch to the long hoppy finish. Overall, this Swedish brew is miraculously, flavourful. Perhaps that flavour won’t be for everyone – and certainly not the faint hearted – but it is a miracle of alcohol-free beer-making in its own way and if barley malt is your thing, you’ll love it