Mary

It’s not just its name that makes Mary unusual in the field of spirit substitutes: atypically, the makers have chosen to use a little alcohol in it and to rely on herbs rather than putting juniper or citrus at the front of the mix.  It works.  The website explains that adding a small amount of alcohol (only 6 units in the bottle which then get diluted further by mixers) gives a sophistication to the drink’s taste that lifts it away from the soft drink category.  It’s true that there’s a depth to Mary that works well with the expertly blended mix of herbs that provides its taste.  It’s perhaps a tiny bit fainter than I’d have liked – I tend to like my flavours big and bouncy – but I like the subtlety of the mix of basil, thyme, pine and other herbs.  It feels grown up and elegant.  After so many drinks that use sugar to replace the fullness of alcohol, this spare, ultra dry drink with its slight kick of alcohol is a very pleasant experience.